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Now it offers a great upstream view of the downtown skyline.The gigantic Homestead Steel Works is gone; the trail there skirts a tidy collection of big-box stores and office buildings, complemented by a row of the mill’s smokestacks.The next day, heading south, we’d have four days and 125 miles of slight but steady uphill to the Eastern Continental Divide, elevation 2,390 feet.

After 27 more years and million, all the bridges, trestles, and tunnels had been rehabbed or built, allowing the trail to run, uninterrupted, for its full 150 miles.

Instead, we pedaled a peaceful, vehicle-free route through the hardwood forests and river valleys of Western Pennsylvania.

The GAP is smooth and easy because it follows a railroad right-of-way abandoned in the early 1970s.

The GAP’s middle section — heading through Ohiopyle State Park — is the bike trail equivalent of wilderness.

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For about 15 miles along the Youghiogheny River, there’s not a single road crossing.

We decided to check out the Great Allegheny Passage, 150 miles of wide, gentle trail running from Cumberland, Md., north to Pittsburgh.

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